In Zones 10 to 11, you can cultivate your plant year-round in the ground or in outdoor containers, for evergreen foliage. Maintain even moisture by watering when the top three to four inches of soil feel dry. Tamp the soil firmly over the roots and around the stems, and water well. Place the contents of the pot into the ground or container so that it sits at the same depth it was at in the pot. Unpot the plant and carefully detangle the roots if necessary. Amend with compost as needed to provide organically-rich earth that drains well.
#PERSIAN MAGIC FLOWERS FULL#
Fill it three-quarters full with organically-rich potting soil.įor transplant to the garden, work the ground soil to a depth of eight to 12 inches. Nursery Pot Transplantingįor outdoor container gardening, choose a well-draining vessel with a depth of at least 12 inches. Avoid letting pots dry out completely, but don’t oversaturate the potting medium. Maintain even moisture by watering when the top three to four inches of the soil feel dry. Plants need between one and three feet to spread out, and a soil depth of about 12 inches to support healthy root development.īury about one inch of the rooted stem in the soil, so the crown, where the roots and stem meet, is buried. Once roots grow to at least an inch long, transplant the cutting to a well-draining vessel filled three-quarters of the way with potting soil, or plant it out in the garden.īe sure to take mature dimensions into account when growing in the garden or outdoor containers. Place the bare stem in a narrow clear container containing two inches of water. Remove the bottom pair or pairs of leaves to reveal about three inches of bare, leafless stem. If blooming has occurred, wait until the last flower drops and a flush of new growth appears.īe sure to cut about one-quarter of an inch above a leaf node, the place where leaves originate. To start with a cutting from existing foliage, cut a length of stem, measuring from the growing tip down about four or five inches.
#PERSIAN MAGIC FLOWERS HOW TO#
Beds, borders, and containers.Here’s how to get started. SOIL REQUIREMENTS: Light, well-drained, moist, fertile soil. Dried: harvest when flower cluster is almost fully open. HARVEST: Fresh: When flower cluster is 3/4 open. Treat spring-planted feverfew as an annual for the best plant habit and flower production.
Plants will eventually bloom under short-day conditions but on shorter stems. Feverfew is a long-day plant, meaning flowering is generally initiated during the longest days of the season. Thin when seedlings have the first true leaves. Keep soil surface moist until germination. Gently press the seeds into the soil, but do not cover as light aids germination. Direct seed - As soon as soil can be worked. Transplant into high tunnels once indoor temperatures are above freezing. Row covers can also be used to protect early plantings during cold spells. Transplanting inside high tunnels very early in the spring will yield long stems and abundant blooms. Spring Planting: For optimal stem and flower quality, treat spring-planted feverfew as an annual.
By overwintering young plants inside a high tunnel for spring harvest, you can attain very tall (up to 48") and abundant stems. Fall Planting: To achieve longer stems and earlier blooms, we recommend fall planting (outdoors or in high tunnels). Feverfew is a tender, or short-lived, perennial in zones 5-9. Transplant to cell packs or 3-4" pots 2-4 weeks after sowing. Bottom water or mist to avoid covering the seed with displaced soil. Gently press the seeds into growing medium, but do not cover as light aids germination. DAYS TO GERMINATION: 10-14 days at 70☏ (21☌) SOWING: Transplant (recommended) - Sow 5-7 weeks before transplanting in either spring or fall.
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